Pat McGrath decided to stop playing with everyone’s emotions with the Limited Edition frenzy, and release a collection that will be available forever and ever. The UNLIMITED EDITION features three very expensive eyeshadow palettes, a collection of matte and satin lipsticks, eye pencils and lip pencils.
What’s interesting about this new collection is that if you’ve experienced any of the other collections, you’ll find major similarities with the new stuff. So, that means if you weren’t crazy about what was on the INSIDE of the collections (she’s gotten the memo about the heinous cheap packaging of collections past)… then save your money. But if you were blown away by the quality and performance of the other items, this is worth your time.
We’ll start with the small stuff first, because it packs a hell of a punch. I got two permagel ultra lip pencils (at discount, thanks to awesome human Talinda P.) in Ground Control (cool dark brown) and Manhattan (warm brick brown). The formula is STUNNING. They are gel pencils, so they glide on like silk (beware the unsteady hand) and stay put. I actually had a bit of a struggle trying to get them off.
I got these pencils to compliment what I knew would be a hot ass ashy ass mess in Donatella and (unbeknownst to me at the time) LaBeija. The Luxe Trance colors are part of the SS18 Milan set, and I wanted LaBeija and the palette… so I figured I could color correct Donatella and get Lavish for free (savings for the set is the cost of one lipstick)
From the left: Donatella, LaBeija, Lavish and Unnatural Natural.
Don’t be fooled by the depth of color in the first two. They look dark in person too. But they swatch much lighter. Lavish is a boring shade of rose and Unnatural Natural is a gorgeous rich mahogany.
I do like LaBeija, but it needs some warming. A couple of hits of Manhattan and it’s just lovely and warm like the swatch. Donatella is right up there with MAC Pink Friday in ‘thou dost try too damn hard.’ I need everyone to do better.
The SS18 Milan Set also includes the Permagel Eye Pencil in Black Coffee, a standard dark cool brown. Really nice formula… but not unlike Urban Decay or Giorgio Armani. Solid application and excellent staying power. But if you have the other two… skip.
Now to the big fish, the Mothership II Palette in Sublime. Here’s the thing. This is an eyeshadow palette. It’s not a life changing set of formulas that will make you abandon all else in makeup. It’s a 10-pan (which is kind of rude for $125. We should have gotten 12) collection of mattes, shimmers and glitters. Refer to my first disclaimer. If you’re familiar with collections past in terms of finish and quality, this is not different. The shimmers are identical to the Dark Star and MetalMorphosis. The glitters identical in formula to the Phantom Collection. These are just pressed into an eyeshadow palette. The mattes are new, and they are exquisite. But they are not superior to the likes of Urban Decay and Natasha Denona. They are about on par.
That’s not why you pony up for this palette.
The packaging is freaking ridiculous in the best kind of way. This box with the toggle closure was probably the very reason Pat went for this across the board. It doesn’t really work for any of the pencils. It looks messy and rudimentary. It works a little for the lipsticks, but there’s a lot of extra rigamoro that that gets in the way of the actual product. But for palette, it works stunningly well. This palette is less of a must have and more of a collector’s item.
The case is hard black lacquer plastic, and the icons on top are imbedded (versus simply painted on). It has a magnetic closure and a beveled mirror that really rounds out the entire shape and scope of this palette. It’s stunning. I feel like Pat heard us complaining about her packaging and wanted to shut us the hell up. Well, she did.
I admit that when I first received this palette, I immediately wanted the other two. But then I came to my senses because as stunning as this palette is, the insides are great, but not exceptional. I chose Sublime for practicality. Subliminal is plain and boring, and Subversive is not practical for me. I have all of those colors from other brands, and I barely use them. But Sublime is a palette that I’ll reach for over and over again, therefore making it a worthy investment.
The colors are rich and for the most part, buttery soft. The two shimmers on the far right of both swatch lists are scratchy and full of glitter. They are more suited to enhancements and better applied with a finger. Kind of like a ‘pop’ shade in Charlotte Tilbury’s shadow palettes or Tom Ford’s version.
In all, I’m happy with my haul. I will use everything in it without a problem. Gone are the days when I pony up for crazy colors and formulations just for the sake of having them. I even took my time with this (buying in pieces after the dust settled) because these days it’s more about using the makeup, versus simply collecting it.
If you’re looking for something to get from the UNLIMITED EDITION, I suggest the eye or lip pencils, and a palette with colors that you will actually use. I’ve found that the LuxeTrance lipsticks aren’t really earth shattering. The MatteTrance, on the other hand, kind of are. But that’s another post.
Ciao for now!